The best (and worst) supermarket cheeses, tested by our experts

According to both cheese experts and supermarkets in the UK, there has been a recent rise in Brits’ preference for softer, stinkier and generally more adventurous cheeses over the more traditional, such as cheddar and Red Leicester. The Times recently reported that Tesco has seen a boom in sales of continental cheese over the past year, while Ocado reported that feta sales have increased by 23.3 per cent in the last year and halloumi is up by 17.4 per cent.
A question I still hear cheese snobs debate frequently, however, is whether supermarket cheeses can ever come close to the quality you’d find at a cheesemonger. Enter Hero Hirsh, who runs the chef Matthew Carter’s cheese restaurant Pick & Cheese in Covent Garden and is a judge at the World Cheese Awards. Hirsh gets to taste some top quality dairy as part of her job, but you will still find supermarket brands in her fridge at home.
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The key according to Hirsh is to follow a few general rules when buying day-to-day cheeses. Always buy your parmesan or cheddar in blocks rather than pre-grated. The same goes for feta, which she buys in its brine. “I always look for a PDO label too [Protected Designation of Origin], which means it will be held to a high standard and I know it will be made a certain way,” she explains. PDO labels are given to cheeses that can only be made in particular regions. For example, in order to sell feta, it must be made in Greece, halloumi in Cyprus and West Country farmhouse cheddar in England’s west country.
There are other clues you can find on your label that will indicate quality and flavour. For example cheeses made with raw unpasteurised milk, such as Brie de Meaux, tend to have more character.
I’ve spoken to plenty of cheese lovers who trade intel about which supermarkets use the same producers — you can work this out by comparing the IT code on the labels (a code unique to each producer that is marked on the packet). However, that doesn’t mean they will taste the same. “Lots of the cheeses we tasted had the same producers but had completely different flavour profiles,” explains Hirsh who has tried, tasted and given her verdict on the feta, cheddar and parmesan below.
By Hero Hirsh and Sidonie Wilson
Exceptional by Asda Barrel Aged Feta270g, £3.20, asda.com★★★★★I like that it comes in a brine, which will keep it fresh. It has a nice sheepy tang. It’s more spreadable than crumbly.
Odysea Feta PDO200g, £3.35, waitrose.com★★★★★This one has real character to it. Yoghurty, strong goatiness and depth of flavour. A pleasing minerality. I’d keep going back for this.
M&S Barrel Aged Feta200g, £4, ocado.com★★★★☆There is less goat’s milk in this than others, which means less tang. A really creamy finish and the salt balance is just right.
M&S Greek Feta200g, £3.10, ocado.com★★★★☆ Really nice balance of sweetness and salt and a soft texture. Just lacking the real goat or sheep flavour.
Lidl Milbona Greek Feta200g, £1,79, lidl.co.uk★★★☆☆ This has a fresh citrussyness. Good flavour, just lacking softness in texture. A strong, solid option.
Tesco Greek Feta200g, £2, tesco.com★★★☆☆ Nice savoury character balanced out by the bitter aftertaste. A decent feta for a salad, or with tomatoes.
Aldi Specially Selected Barrel Aged Feta200g, £2.69, aldi.co.uk★★★☆☆ Way too much salt. Also highly acidic. Grainy texture and it lingers in your mouth — not in a good way.
Waitrose Essential Greek Feta200g, £2.15, waitrose.com★★☆☆☆This one is a bit of a let-down; a good initial goaty flavour but then not much else. A bit over-salted.
Asda Greek Feta200g, £1.79, asda.com★★☆☆☆Mild, crumbly and sweet. Willing it to be more savoury. It’s let down by the salt levels.
Sainsbury’s Greek Feta200g, £2.10, sainsburys.co.uk★★☆☆☆ Great texture, but too acidic and a bit too one-dimensional.
Emporium Greek Feta200g, £1.79, aldi.co.uk★★☆☆☆Quite bitter and almost fuzzy. Disappointingly unpleasant.
Co-op Greek Feta200g, £1.99, coop.co.uk★☆☆☆☆I don’t love the flavour, which is bitter, or the texture — there’s a slightly sandy quality. Not a good option.
Morrisons the Best Barrel Aged Feta150g, £2.65, morrisons.com★☆☆☆☆Very, very bitter — it almost tastes tinned. Avoid.
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Co-op Mozzarella125g, £1.30, coop.com★★★★★ Wow. This actually melts in your mouth, unlike most stringy supermarket mozzarella. And it has a good flavour.
Exceptional by Asda Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP125g, £2.20, asda.com★★★★☆ Nice ivory appearance and it shreds easily. Firm, rich in flavour — a pretty decent buffalo mozzarella.
M&S Buffalo Mozzarella200g, £4.75, ocado.com★★★★☆These are so moreish, I could eat balls and balls of this. Creamy with a bit of tang. Great for adding to a salad, but probably not one for when the guests come round.
M&S Traditional Italian Mozzarella125g, £2, ocado.com★★★★☆A bit rubbery, but a good option for pizzas and salads.
Mozzarella Duchy Organic125g, £1.80, waitrose.com★★★★☆Good texture; moist, but not stringy at all. Would be happy to serve this in my tricolore salad.
Waitrose No 1 Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP225g, £2.25 down from £3, waitrose.com★★★★☆This has a very cheesy, milky taste — not for the faint-hearted.
Morrisons Mozzarella125g, £1.19, morrisons.com★★★☆☆Pleasantly surprised despite the slightly off-putting look. Mild and soft, just as it says on the tin.
Aldi Emporium Italian Mozzarella125g, £0.89, aldi.co.uk★★★☆☆Has a slight metallic taste, but the texture of expensive mozzarella.
Asda Italian Mozzarella125g, £0.89, asda.com★★☆☆☆Not particularly springy. Very milky, almost too much so. It has quite a good texture, but it isn’t going to be the star of a tricolore salad.
Waitrose Essential Italian Mozzarella150g, £1.40, waitrose.com★★☆☆☆Boring and bland. There’s nothing more to say.
Sainsbury’s Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP290g, £2.35, sainsburys.co.uk★☆☆☆☆Oh dear. The middle should be pillowy, but all I get is a grainy texture.
Tesco Mozzarella200g, £1.20, tesco.com★☆☆☆☆Quite firm and tasteless. Not a good choice.
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Aldi Specially Selected Davidstow Vintage Cheddar200g, £2.29, aldi.co.uk★★★★★Impressive. You can taste the crystals. Not one for grating, but this is the closest you’ll get to a cheeseboard cheese.
Tesco Finest Mature English Cheddar350g, £4, tesco.com★★★★★This would be the star in a sandwich. Juicy and crumbly. Fruity, with a nice acidity. I’m impressed.
Duchy Organic Mature Cheddar350g, £4.50, waitrose.com★★★★☆Great texture — it has a real bite to it and melts on the tongue. Complex flavours; just what you want from a good cheddar. It could easily stand up to a chutney. One for the ploughman’s.
Waitrose Davidstow Cornish Mature Cheddar350g, £4.25, waitrose.com★★★★☆Nice firm texture with a slight bitterness, if that’s what you like.
M&S Cornish Cove Mature Cheddar550g, £6, ocado.com★★★★☆Firm in texture with a good amount of acidity. I’d have this on its own.
Co-op Irresistible Somerset Mature Cheddar340g, £4.20, coop.com★★★☆☆It’s got a real savoury, almost Marmite-like flavour. Some people will love this, and some will hate it.
Tesco Mature Cheddar400g, £3, tesco.com★★★☆☆Not too sweet — it has a good balance of flavours.
Sainsbury’s West Country Farmhouse Mature Cheddar400g, £3, sainsburys.co.uk★★★☆☆A bit too tart. It has quite pronounced bitterness, which is not that enjoyable. An interesting taste, but not necessarily in the best way.
Aldi Emporium Mature Cheddar400g, £2.49, aldi.co.uk★★★☆☆A bit too milky. Underwhelming. Perfectly good for a kid’s sandwich but not much more.
Sainsbury’s British Mature Cheddar400g, £3, sainsburys.co.uk★★★☆☆ Very pleasing acidity. Good taste.
Lidl Deluxe Somerset Crunchy Extra Mature Cheddar300g, £2.99, lidl.co.uk★★★☆☆This is very sweet, and tastes almost like a gouda. It’s crowd pleasing, but it’s not balanced enough.
Asda British Mature Cheddar400g, £3, asda.com★★☆☆☆There’s no complexity. It’s pleasant, but I wouldn’t have it on a cheeseboard. It’s firmly one for the grater.
Morrisons the Best Extra Mature West Country Farmhouse Cheddar300g, £3.25, morrisons.com★★☆☆☆There’s a bit too much bitterness that I don’t love. And there’s no balance of flavours. A real shame.
Asda Just Essentials Mature White Cheddar825g, £4.47, asda.com★★☆☆☆Very pale and sad looking. Bland. I’m not sure I’d describe it as mature — there’s just no flavour.
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Lidl Deluxe Brie de Meaux200g, £3.09, lidl.co.uk★★★★★It literally oozed out of the packet. Very impressed. Creamy, tangy, and a nice hard rind. Mon Dieu, that is a French cheese.
Waitrose French Ripe Brie170g, £2.95, waitrose.com★★★★★The rind has a good cabbagy smell, which is what you want. Incredibly oozy.
Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Brie de Meaux175g, £3.75, sainsburys.co.uk★★★★☆ This comes in a chic wooden tray which helpfully catches all the oozy cheese. The smell really hits you as the plastic unwraps, and so does the flavour. I’d be happy to have this on my cheeseboard.
M&S Somerset Brie230g, £2.40, ocado.com★★★★☆Easy to get out of the packaging. Ticks all the boxes. Soft, creamy, mild enough that you could eat the whole wedge. More suited to a sandwich than a cheeseboard.
Waitrose Somerset Bri230g, £2.50, waitrose.com★★★★☆Wow, very ripe. A slight smell of ammonia on the rind. A good salt balance. Decadent texture. Not highly complex, but a very pleasing brie.
Aldi Specially Selected Brie de Meaux165g, £2.59, aldi.co.uk★★★★☆Nul points for the packaging, but you can forgive it as the flavour packs a punch. Tastes like a brie from a cheesemonger. Delicious.
Co-op Somerset Brie160g, £2.40, coop.co.uk★★★★☆Never mind the grainy rind, the texture is creamy and delicious. A nice brie.
M&S Brie de Meaux200g, £4.50, ocado.com★★★☆☆Good and relatively strong flavour, but slightly plastic texture.
Tesco British Brie160g, £2.25, tesco.com★★★☆☆Lovely, creamy texture but a very mild and slightly disappointing flavour.
Morrisons the Best Brie de Meux165g, £3.75, morrisons.com★★★☆☆Nice, tangy flavour.
Asda Somerset Brie160g, £2.25, asda.com★★☆☆☆Very solid, almost mushroom-like flavour coming from the rind. Under-salted and not enough going on. Too mild.
Le Rustique Le Bon Brie200g, £2.20, ocado.com★★☆☆☆Extra crémeux? Oui. Saveur? Non! You don’t fool us with your fancy packaging.
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Tesco Finest Parmigiano Reggiano170g, £3.60, tesco.com★★★★★Not overly aged, still quite vibrant. Very pleasing texture with developed crystals. It hits the spot.
Aldi Specially Selected Parmigiano Reggiano170g, £2.99, aldi.com★★★★☆Good balance of flavour. There’s a little bit of bitterness, but not in a bad way. Certainly nutty. One of the best I’ve tasted.
Lidl Deluxe Parmigiano Reggiano200g, £3.49, lidl.co.uk★★★★☆Little sandy in texture, but not unpleasant. Good flavour with hints of fruitiness. It ticks most boxes.
Co-op Parmigiano Reggiano170g, £3.50, coop.co.uk★★★★☆Nice flavour — but it doesn’t taste like a parmesan. For the age, however, I’m pleasantly surprised.
M&S 24-Month Matured Parmigiano Reggiano200g, £4.75, ocado.com★★★★☆Buttery flavour with a nice crunchy texture. I’d expect this to grate really well.
Morrisons the Best Parmigiano Reggiano170g, £3.59, morrisons.com ★★★☆☆Nice, rustic-looking cut of cheese with a good nutty flavour. Sadly this tastes like it’s past its optimum. But only just.
Tesco Parmegiano Reggiano200g, £3.50, tesco.com★★★☆☆It delivers. Good, golden colour with a good, brittle texture for 22 months.
Sainsbury’s Parmegiano Reggiano200g, £3.40, sainsburys.co.uk★★★☆☆I’m not getting any sweetness. A bit dusty and grainy, and not in the pleasant way you might expect from parmesan.
Morrison’s Parmegiano Reggiano200g, £3.50, morrisons.com★★☆☆☆As expected for quite a young parmesan (this is 15 months old), it’s quite moist. It has good umami flavour, but it falls down on the pasty texture. Not one for grating on pasta.
Waitrose Essential Parmigiano Reggiano DOP175g, £3, waitrose.com★★☆☆☆Pale looking. The flavour is thin, lacking and tastes like old socks.
Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Parmigiano Reggiano200g, £4.10, sainsburys.co.uk★★☆☆☆Oh dear. This is quite bilious in flavour. Unimpressed.
Exceptional by Asda Parmigiano Reggiano DOP170g, £3.60, asda.com★★☆☆☆Dull in appearance. Yes it’s aged, for 30 months, but it really tastes like it’s old. Some hints of hazelnuts, however, which is nice.
Ocado British Hard Goat’s Cheese150g, £2.70, ocado.com★★★★☆Quite firm and tangy; you can really taste the goat’s milk coming through. Perhaps a little too salty.
Sainsbury’s Somerset Goat’s Cheese100g, £2.25, sainsburys.co.uk★★★★☆Sharp, tangy flavour and creamy texture. You could easily sneak this on the cheeseboard and it could be mistaken for a cheesemonger buy.
M&S Soft Goat’s Cheese150g, £4.25, ocado.com★★☆☆☆Rind is a bit bitter, and it has a slightly fuzzy aftertaste.
Specially Selected Baking Camembert250g, £2.59, aldi.co.uk★★★★☆Creamy and mild with a nice tangy aftertaste. I could easily eat a whole wheel.
The Best French Camembert250g, £3.19, morrisons.com★★★☆☆Creamy with a very mild taste. Not much going on, but no complaints.